Here is a description of my computer mods:
Update: after building my SLI rig I finally decided to recycle the Black Stealth. I'm now using it as a Windows Media Center (2k5) and it's doing wonderful!
The initial hardware (Soyo KT400 board) had some issues with the TV Tuner PCI card so I've updated pretty much everything. Here are the new specs:
Gigabyte Socket 754 Nforce 3 motherboard
AMD Semptron 2800 (64bit) running at a cool 2.2Ghz (stock is 1.6Ghz!)
2x512MB of Corsair XMS3500 DDR
Radeon X1600 Pro with Ramsinks and H2O GPU block
Hauppauge WinTV-PVR-500 MCE (dual tuner)
TV display (hopefully a new 37"+ LCD coming soon)
52x24x52 burner, 16x DVD
ATA100 7200RPM 120GB system drive and 250GB SATA media drive (movies, music, recorded shows...)
Well, I'm finally back with some new stuff. Back in March of this year (2003) I was very fortunate to receive a brand new Chieftec Matrix full tower for my b-day. It wasn't long before I had planned what I wanted to do with it.
The case is totally huge and I wanted to do something crazy yet keeping it looking as "server" as possible. The second objective was to create an overclocker monster that people won't even know is there (well at least if they close their eyes)... by that I mean quiet, very quiet!
Part list (I'm sure I'll forget some but here it is):
- Chieftec Matrix Full tower
- Antec 550W PSU/blue clear cover
- Sunbeam dual Cold Cathode
- Mag Drive 250gph pump with Swiftech pump relay (turn on with computer!)
- Matrix Orbital LK204-25PC LCD (powers the cathodes. front LEDs, email LED)
- Clear acrylic wheels.
- DangerDen bay reservoir, Maze 3 block (copper top), Radeon 9700 Pro block.
- Black Ice II radiator for dual 120mm fans
- 5"x5" radiator
- 1/2" tubing all around.
- Lighted case badge (with custom Hazard badge)
- Alaska sound proofing.
- CompuNurse thermal probe
- 2x120mm fans controlled by 15W rheostat, 1 92mm fan, 1 80mm fan for the HDs, and PSU fans (auto regulated).
- top and side window, custom LCD insert
- rounded IDE cables
- Soyo KT400 board
- 2x512MB of Corsair XMS3500 DDR
- Radeon 9700 Pro with Ramsinks and H2O GPU block.
- Athlon XP 2400+ (for now... the hardware is almost a year old now!!!).
- Dual 19" monitor setup. Viewsonic P95f+ and Sylvania 19"
- Lots of USB crap
- 52x24x52 burner, 16x DVD
- Raid0: Maxtor 40G 7200RPM, IDE primary: 80G Maxtor
- Cambridge 4-1 speakers
Well, I think that's pretty much it for now...
Onto the project....
Phase 1: the planning and spending (god I hate that part)
This is the part where most people fail. Planning ahead will save you trouble in the long run and despite the fact that I didn't completely wait until I had all the part, I did manage to accumulate most of them before starting the project.
The case is a Chieftec Matrix Full tower. It came bare without a PSU or window (those factory windows are pretty ugly...). I ordered a dual cold cathode kit (Sunbeam) as well as a new Matrix Orbital LCD (LK204-25PC) which features some powerful general purpose outputs (GPOs) which I was planning on using to power different accessories... more on that later.
Again, I strongly emphasize on the importance of this planning phase. Without it you'll be waiting for parts that you could have had for a long time. Don't take your main system apart unless you have everything you need to just fit the hardware components in.
Phase 2: the powertool work
Here
the fun part begins. Get yourself some nice blades, dremel bits and
drill bits as well as a lot of patience. This phase is actually not
that long and not very hard as long as you don't go crazy. I've gotten
a couple window kits that came with instructions. I used to masking
tape to cover the whole case (where the cuts were going to be), and
traces the outlines for the holes. Then in just a couple of hours cut
everything out...
Top window, side window, bottom radiator holes, and PSU cover hole...
out of the way.
I also ended up drilling out a couple switch holes in one of the 3.5" bay cover. The smart card reader place under the switch panel also had to be slightly modified (dremel cut) to accommodate the large rheostat.
Phase 3: the painting
Well, not much done here, as opposed to my last case mod. I just had to paint those drives and drive covers black. I was initially going to make them stealth (hidden behind the bay covers) but after much thoughts and since the drive rails wouldn't push the drives further, I abandoned the idea... maybe will do this for a next project.
Phase 4: the primary case assembly
The tough work starts here so brace yourself. The first thing I've done was take care of the PSU. I bought a spool of spiral loom for almost nothing (I think I paid $8) and ended up using this on every single cable in the case. All the PSU cables were covered as well as the light cables, power cables and so on.
I then started to take care of the H2O cooling system and see how the parts would fit. Everything looked ok, besides the bottom radiator that I had to slightly offset so it would clear the IDE cables.
Next I epoxied the clear acrylic wheels that I ordered for the mod so the case would have enough airflow underneath to provide enough cooling through the rad.
The case was then covered by some Alaska sound proof material (I'm not sure how much it reduces the noise overall since I haven't tested the case without so don't ask me...). Overall the final product is extremely quiet, even with the fans at full throttle! Amazing!
. 
All the wiring in the case was also done during this phase. I spend significantly longer with the wiring than expected but the final result is amazingly clear.
Phase 5: the final assembly, hardware components and water cooling filling
Almost done! Phase 4 was the toughest part so far. Now the final assembly is very delicate... you don't want all your work to be for nothing so take your time!
Here I had to actually relocate a thing or two (such as the top mounted cathode that had to be relocated under the mid radiator). I was initially thinking about using H2O cooling for the hard drives but I couldn't find a descent waterblock that would take care of them so I ended up using a small quiet 80mm fan placed up front. Notice that the hard drive cage comes really (really) close to the H2O cooling tubes. I actually had to detach the bottom radiator in order to fit the cage (not the most practical but for now it will do).
Cool features: final product and some of the cool thingies that you may not see
What most people don't realize looking at this mod is the amount of work that did go into it. No fancy paint job, no fancy clear case, but that wasn't the point of the mod here.
My goal was to achieve a killer overclocker case, yet keeping it as quiet as possible and still look like a PC (i.e no fancy paint work... at least for now).
Well, I can say, goal achieved. With my system OCed to 2.28Ghz (162Mhz FSB) the CPU doesn't go over 50C with room temp at around 25C (if room temp goes down to around 18C like it should be, the system never goes over 44C). Also the 120mm fans are tuned down to around 7V most of the time so you really can't hear but a whisper (actually it is very pleasant).
Next the LCD.... well this is the coolest thing in the case besides the H2O cooling system. First let me start by thanking Matrix Orbital for helping when I needed it. My first test on the LCD came out with burned out GPOs (tried to hook up two different types of cold cathode inverter.. the LCD didn't like it...). LCD fixed an not works perfectly. It is powering the cold cathodes by software! Yes you've read it correctly. The cathodes turn on at 9am and off at 12am everyday! If you look closely at some pictures, you'll also noticed the small LEDs that I put behind the front bezel (looks sick in the dark, the pictures don't actually show this too well). Those LEDs (6 in total) are also controlled by the LCD. Finally the LCD controls the email LED (red LED next to LCD) that will flash on incoming mail. One of the switches in the 3.5" bay is connected to the LCD so when I press on it, the LCD will turn all lights off and back on (cycle). Pretty freaking sweet). The LCD was also mounted on a separate piece of plexi that I cut and fitted under the top window so it looks like it's floating.
The rheostat knob had to be slightly trimmed out to clear the front bezel. The pump stand was attached to a modified cage guide to fit in the case nicely.
I also included a couple of sound ports up front that are not currently connected (motherboard doesn't seem to work with those). The large red switch up front is a secondary power switch that needs to be pressed in order to start the system (prevents people front turning system on when bezel is locked).
The middle radiator provides additional cooling before the water gets back into the reservoir. It doesn't help that much besides removing significant heat right after the CPU and GPU block pass. I also made a custom air box (see add pictures) in cartboard to put under the case so the bottom fans draw the air from behind the case and it also provides additional sound proofing. The CompuNurse monitors the HD temp.
Well
this is pretty much it... Again, I'm sure I've missed some stuff but
I'll try to add as I remember.
Hope you liked it!
